Monday, January 28, 2008

Anyone have a Hep shot I can borrow?

As some of you (those not living under a rock) know Cali was rocked by some pretty heavy rain this last week. Heavy rain means every pile of unpicked up dog shit and piece of trash people drop on the ground washes out into the lineup. Heavy rain also sometimes means brand new sandbars. Saturday was an exceptional day of surf at a normally shitty Venice Breakwater. I figured when I woke up that it would be choppy and of course the water filthy. Enough to keep anyone out of the water. However, on checking, Matt reported some insane surf. I was still hesitant and figured I missed a good but dirty day. When I went to the beach to check it out, I saw perfect rights coming in with barely anyone out and stiff offshore winds keeping the shape.

After hustling back to the house to get my board, I called Rene who was meant to meet me there but of course flaked. For two hours I surfed unbelievable and mostly empty rights right off the jetty. Even scored a few cover ups. Best part of all is that I didn't get sick from the water.

P.S. Dear Blackberry...I love my Blackberry Pearl more than just about anything but the camera on it sucks balls. Please send me a new surfboard as an apology.

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